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COFFEE TABLES
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These slotted angle brackets are available at many hardwear stores or
builders merchants.
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An
Information Sheet for Students
WARNING:
Woodworking machines are potentially dangerous. All machine processes
described on this web site should only be carried out by qualified
personnel, or under the supervision of qualified personnel.
Fixing the top for an wooden
coffee table:
The
main aspect to take into consideration when fixing a wooden coffee
table top is movement related to moisture content. The boards for the
top will have been air or kiln dried to a predetermined moisture
content, but because wood can absorb moisture from a damp atmosphere,
or lose it to a dry one, there is potential for expansion or
contraction of the top. To some extent the sealing of the top with wood
finish will help to minimise this effect, but it is good design
practice to allow for some independent movement. Timber moves the most
tangentially, about half that amount radially, and least of all in the
direction of the grain. (See fig 8).
This will create a
slightly different effect in a top made from quarter sawn timber than
in one made from plain sawn timber. However, from a practical point of
view, the main movement to be accommodated for in both cases will be
across the grain direction. (see fig 8). The possible outcome if the
coffee table top is screwed to the base all the way round with no room
for movement is a split top. This is because the grain in the end rails
is running at 90 degrees to the grain in the top and they will be
trying to expand or contract different amounts. |
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Using slotted battens to fix
the top.
Fig
9 shows one method of allowing for movement in the top. After
the base
has been finished, machine up 18mm thick battens, cut them to
length,
and glue to the inside of the rails. Make slots in the battens
on the
side rails and drill a hole central to the table width in the battens
on the end rails. The holes should be at least a couple of drill sizes
larger than the screws & the slots should be a couple of drill
sizes wider than the screws. Lay the tabletop face down on a
blanket on
the workbench and position the base on it as shown in fig 9. Drill a
pilot hole into the table top through the two end central clearance
holes and screw the base to the top with pan head screws and
washers.
This keeps the table top fixed around the central length-wise axis of
the table. Next drill pilot holes in the table top through the middle
of the slotted holes in the side battens. Insert pan head
screws and
washers and tighten until the screws nip the washers against
the
battens. Then slacken off the screw just enough that the washer can be
turned with your finger. Now, if the top needs to move, it
can slide
the screws in the slots provided and do so symmetrically around the
central length-wise axis. If the table is quite heavy and you don't
want to add the extra weight of the battens, the same result can be
obtained by using slotted metal angle brackets (see far left). |
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Using buttons to fix the top.
A third way of tackling moveable fixings is to use "buttons" see fig 10.
This
involves slotting the inside of the rails of the table and fixing the
top by means of rebated pieces of timber two or three inches square
with a rebate. These are screwed to the
underside of the coffee table top with the rebates fitted into the
slots in the rails. This holds the top firm but allows the rebate to
slide in and out of the slot if the top moves. |
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